820 W Foothill Blvd
Upland, CA 91786
(909) 608-1668
Chef: Hokie
Score: 68/100
there's a well researched group of pynchon fans (pynchonians? pynchonites? pynchers?) who speculate that the crying of lot 49's san narciso is actually claremont, california; that claremont/montclair is the reflection the name describes, and the town's "own freeway" is i-60, the pomona freeway, which shares a name with claremont's pomona college.
a separate but no doubt overlapping group of pynchonistas claim thomas himself lives in the inland empire; that san narciso's claremont connection is not simply an homage to the hometown of friends mimi and joan baez's parents, but a nod to his own station, where he walks the streets sans paper bag, anonymously taking in the sun drenched beauty reflected back at him.
if this is true, it's by no means a stretch to think some of that reflected sun first kissed the windows of mora restaurant in upland before landing upon pynchon's (presumably) supple cheeks.
located in a large, stand alone building with mirrored windows reminiscent of a strip club, mora is known by some as simply a weekend lunch alternative to near-by miyabi, who only offers lunch options on the weekdays. but if that's all you see in mora, you're selling yourself -- and mora -- short.
between the microsoft word word-art propped ACTION DINNERS!, the giant non-load bearing central fish tank, and the constant reminder that you are blessed by GOD, mora is an experience unlike any hibachi i've had before.
so get out your muted post horns and declare to the word: I'LL TAKE THE SHRIMP ACTION DINNER AND THE FRIED RICE, PLEASE!
salad - 9/10
finally, somewhere that understands not everyone wants a mayo dressing -- but some no doubt do. mora offers both a tangy ginger and a sweet miso. we opted for the tangy ginger after asking which is mayo-less (the implication being that the miso is not, but that's not confirmed), and we couldn't have been happier. a truly delightful meal starter, with crisp lettuce and cabbage, and perhaps even some shaved ginger or bento flakes. the lack of tomato prevents me from giving this a 10/10, but it's darn close.
soup - 7/10
a very good onion soup, served at the perfect temperature. the bowls were flimsy and lacked gravitas, but otherwise there was nothing wrong with the presentation. the sediment however was noticeably under portioned, and when it comes to onion soups, that's the main attraction. but, there was something noteworthy and unique about this soup. was it made with a beef stock instead of the standard chicken? the umami was undeniably present, and unexpectedly delicious. given the notable lack of onion, i'm shocked i landed on such a high grade. but even upon reflection, it's no doubt deserved.
sauces - 6/10
a solid ginger, albeit a bit delicate for my taste. beautiful color, though, and a very strong finish. the yum-yum looked a bit more mayo'y than most, and the chef insisted on directing us towards particular sauces, going as far as to drop a bit of meat or two into the one he thought appropriate. i'm big enough to hold my own hand, thank you very much.
fried rice - 5/10
almost perfect consistency, and a great temperature. but the lack of chicken hurt this, as did the over-reliance on oil over garlic butter. could have used a bit more japanese coca-cola (soy sauce), too.
vegetables - 10/10
onions, sprouts, carrots, mushrooms, and zucchini all cooked to perfection. and hokie-san confirmed with each of us first that there was nothing on there none of us didn't like. i personally don't like carrots, but after earning my trust with the rest of this meal, i doth not protest. and was happy i didn't.
appetizer shrimp - 7/10
no toss, and almost 50% of the table's total allotment was dropped into recommended sauce without permission. i'm a fan of shrimp n' ginger, but the assumption...
main course (shrimp) - 7/10
very tasty shrimp, but a smaller portion than i expected -- especially given that we ordered and paid for the dinner portion despite it being lunch. one in our party got the fillet, which i usually advise against, but at only $3 more than the ny strip, i held my tongue. and i'm glad i did: as tender and perfectly cooked a bite of hibachi steak as i've ever tried. that one bite saves this from a much lower, shrimp-only score.
dessert noodles - 0/10
ABSENT. inexcusable.
show - 10/10
an almost-empty restaurant for a post holiday weekend saturday lunch, one can't expect a chef to care too much. but hokie-san brought the enthusiasm one prays for, and then some. constant "ooh la la"ing, extra fire posing for photos, strong table banter, and a complete willingness to lean into his name and do the hokie-pokie put this towards the top of our show rankings. but the hand-lit volcano, solid use of bike horn and fake squirt bottle, and a grand exit push this over the finish line. well done, hokie. you should be proud of your craft, and based on your enthusiasm, i have no doubt you are.
potpourri - 7/10
the large restaurant filled with religious artifacts and giant mid-dining room cylindrical fish tank set the scene for a grand meal -- just the right amount of inherent build up one wants before a hibachi lunch. the wait staff was attentive both with the bill and refills, and we never felt ignored. the one knock is the bathroom: back to back exposed urinals do not make for a private peeing experience, and the new jersey sky diving poster seemingly provided by the state's travel czar gave me hand washing anxiety.
word from hokie is that miyabi -- where both he and our reviews got their starts -- is under new ownership and due for a re-review. if this is true, we can't in good conscience recommend the la verne staple without trying it again. but no matter: mora is just a few miles down foothill, and proved to be a solid if not excellent fill in choice. throw in the fact that it's open for weekend lunch, and we may soon need to declare a new emperor of the inland empire hibachi scene.
