Takara, State Street, Madison, WI, 03/30/2008

Takara
315 State St
Madison, WI 53703
(608) 268-0188

Chef: Unnamed

Score: 70/100

today we venture out of the safe sun of southern california into the cold...late march...of madison, wisconsin. it snowed. it actually snowed.
anyways...
nestled in between the yuppie utopic shops of madison's state street, the occasional gem pops up (like chautara's nepali food, which you can find directly across the way from takara, or four star video). takara fits into this category. primarily a sushi restaurant, the location houses four hibachi tables that are infrequently put into action. i had two meals there during my trip--a sushi lunch and a hibachi dinner--and i only saw the grills used for two total parties, one of which was us. this is no mark against the quality though, and if anything it made the meal much more intimate and much less novel. for anyone visiting badger country, takara is a must eat.

salad - 8/10
a fantastically crisp, fresh mix of lettuce goes with an unassuming but delicious ginger dressing. non-mayo based, not watered down, and more than enough for the bowl.

soup - 7/10
i will say that this is probably the best broth i have ever had, but the two total onion bits is inexcusable.

sauces - 7/10
they get some bonus points here for personal preference, but they still wind up with only a 7/10. it is rare to find a two-sauce restaurant that gives ginger and sesame mustard--the s.m. is usually the third in a trio including yum-yum, but takara breaks the mold and replaces the overused and disgusting yum-yum with the usually bonus reserved s.m. the ginger, however--the linchpin to a good hibachi--,was not up to par. watery and somewhat flavorless, despite visually appearing normal--the antithesis of their salad dressing.

fried rice - 6/10
fantastic consistency, but not nearly enough sauce--the classic hibachi fried rice dilemma.

vegetables - 8/10
strong ratios here, which extra bamboo to make up for the lack of dessert noodle, and quite well sauced and plentiful. did the expected fantastically, but did not go above and beyond.

appetizer shrimp - 9/10
large, fresh, plump portions, but no toss. had there been, we'd be looking at a 10.

main course (shrimp, but tried salmon) - 10/10
more shrimp, bigger shrimp, and fresher shrimp than your average place, and perfectly made. the salmon was the best hibachi fish i have ever tried. my hibach partner did not finish her meal, so i brought home the leftover salmon and fried rice and cooked them up in her wok--the best leftover hibachi i've ever had (leftover hibachi is a rare occurrence that usually only happens when i go with other people...).

dessert noodles - 0/10
ABSENT. inexcusable.

show - 8/10
the (quite young) chef started off with slow, deliberate knife/spatula twirls that were hands down the best i'd ever seen. he moved on to a fireshow that included warnings as not to disrupt the weak of heart, and a routine that featured a whistling train-volcano among other new tricks. he did not treat us like amateurs, and he played off of our reactions well. certainly one of the better shows i've ever seen, especially considering it was only for the two of us. had he not looked so bored, this would be a 10.

potpourri - 7/10
once again i had to give a few extra points here, seeing as the 0/10 for lack of dessert noodles was probably a bit harsh. the sushi here is fresh and delicious, but the wait staff could use a bit of work.

quite a showing, especially considering the lack of dessert noodles. there could have been more (we ordered two sushi rolls in addition to the meal...), and there can be improvements, but the main course alone makes this worth the trip if you're in madison.


Kado, The Grove, Los Angeles, CA, 02/09/2008

Kado
6333 W. 3rd Street
Los Angeles, CA 90036
(323) 933 0055

Chef: Unnamed

Score: 68/100

despite frequent reported billy crystal sightings and a los angeles location that can't be beat (for foot traffic--the grove makes me itch...), this high end hibachitorium is almost always seemingly empty. still, if you're looking for somewhere high end that offers loads of non-hibachi options, or if you're simply looking for a benihana alternative in los angeles proper, kado is most likely the place for you.

salad - 10/10
high end greens and a more flavorful dressing than anywhere i have ever encountered earn this salad a perfect score. it could benefit from being bigger, but the bowl shape does make it deceptively larger than you would assume when you first get it. incredible cherry tomatoes add a beautiful red to this otherwise dark collection of fresh greens. magnificent.

soup - 4/10
an excellent miso, but still a miso. for a place that prides itself in being fancy, this low-end alternative to the onion-sedimented hibachi standard is a disappointment. with a small portion, to boot.

sauces - 6/10
incredible ginger sauce and a surprisingly tolerable yum-yum for a yum-yum hater like myself, but the partitioned single dish makes pouring hard.

fried rice - 3/10
dry and virtually flavorless, but a generous portion saves this from a 1 or a 2.

vegetables - 9/10
perfectly sauced, a high mushroom ratio, and generally fresh and high quality.

appetizer shrimp - 9/10
more than normal portions and a long and fun shrimp toss earn high marks here.

main course (shrimp, but tried chicken, salmon) - 9/10
succulent, larger than usual (shrimp themselves and quantity), and moist, the main courses here are hard to top. with kobe beef and lobster as options as well as a large array of not-normal not-expensive options, you may have you work cut out for you at ordering time. if it weren't for them annoyingly calling their shrimp "black tiger shrimp," i'd probably have made the jump to a 10.

dessert noodles - 0/10
ABSENT. inexcusable.

show - 9/10
a present but weak volcano did not bode well, but the chef made up for it with extra effort. it is obvious that they put a lot of value in their show at kado, as they see themselves as a special excursion (the chef could not believe we were here when it was not someone's birthday). there were two heart-shaped valentines themed dishes, which seemed a bit premature and excessive, but the beating heart rice soon made me forget this. overall, a good job.

potpourri - 9/10
i did give a few extra points here, seeing as the 0/10 for lack of dessert noodles was probably a bit harsh. the wait staff is friendly (and the hostesses are quite attractive) and quick to refill water. there are plenty of non-hibachi options, and its proximity to so much else doesn't hurt, even if it is the grove. i am always a bit put off when you have to ask specifically for a fork, because it is a bit more embarrassing than simply taking one when offered--you feel like you're asking the guy at the 7/11 for a hustler--but still, it does make you feel like you're somewhere a bit more authentic. we had no wait, even on a saturday night, which is both good and bad, and the ambiance is quite nice.

overall, if you're not a hibachi regular and you're looking for something special this may be your place. certainly not an experience worth writing home about, but not a waste of time either.


Miyabi La Verne, La Verne, CA, 02/07/2008

Miaybi La Verne
2345 Foothill Blvd.
La Verne, CA 91750
(909) 392 6808
www.MiyabiRestaurant.com

Chef: Paul of La Verne, CA

Score: 79/100

as usual, miaybi did not disappoint. for a thursday night, this local hotspot was crowded as ever. the wait staff is friendly and caring, and their food is always spot on, despite the portions being a bit small. still, the price can't be beat, and for overall value in the inland empire we are yet to find a better location.

salad - 8/10
the miyabi salad is excellent: great dressing to greens ratio (non-mayo based dressing, to boot), fresh tomatoes in every bowl, and high quality ice berg lettuce. you can't ask for too much more without going above and beyond.

soup - 8/10
again, a very strong showing here. quite flavorful with just the right amount of fried onion at the bottom. hard to beat.

sauces - 9/10
there are three to choose from, which is more than the standard two, and their ginger is one of the best i have ever had. still--they try to push the yum-yum on you sometimes, and this frustrates me. while i'm not doing this evaluation on past trips, one time (of the upwards of 20 i've been here) a chef put a shrimp of mine in the yum-yum sauce in an attempt to convert me. i was insulted to say the least.

fried rice - 9/10
a generous portion, perfectly sauced and textured, with egg to boot. a smidgen too much salt prevented the 10/10.

vegetables - 7/10
again, all you could expect. good onion-to-total ratio, a good amount of mushrooms and zucchini, and a light sauce.

appetizer shrimp - 6/10
two whole shrimp per person, and cooked to perfection. the lack of the shrimp toss bumped this category down a notch, though.

main course (shrimp, but tried fillet, chicken, and steak) - 8/10
a large portion done well. not much more to say here.

dessert noodles - 9/10
again, almost perfect. mixed perfectly with the bamboo and flash cooked in oil, these noodles are as good as you will find anywhere. it just needed the extra something for the 10/10.

show - 8/10
i think the chef could tell we weren't there for the show, but he nonetheless gave it his all. he (and i observed the chefs around us doing this as well) was a bit overzealous with the use of fire, but you do need something to draw the crowd i guess on a thursday night. the hourglass (up-side-down volcano on volcano) is always a huge plus, but the lack of jokes is what threw me off (what ever happened to "rice rice baby"?).

potpourri - 7/10
we had a slight problem with working out the bill which delayed us, but the water service as always is phenomenal at miyabi, as is the optional and offered but not forced fork selection (we are--after all--americans). we did not have to wait for a table, but the place was quite crowded for a thursday. if it had been more so, they always have the second room to accommodate for crowded nights. the prices are lower than most, but so is the portion size. the non-hibachi menu is prolific, and their sushi is fresh and tasty.

when it is all said and done, miyabi is one of the best values AND one of the best meals you will have at any hibachitorium in the southern california area. if you already live out east, it's hard to justify going anywhere else.